Exhibit: Ivy Style

When I visited the museum at FIT last month I was going with the single goal of basking in the museum's collection highlights in their A-Z exhibit (which did not disappoint). What I had not expected to find were loads and loads of lovely menswear pieces, complimented by F. Scott Fitzgerald quotes and quintessential campus backdrops and sets.

Photo credit: Chelsea from Inside Hook

From strictly a museum perspective, Ivy Style was engaging, almost theatrical in a sense, while remaining factual and respectable. I believe it nicely towed the line between loads of wonderful information and lots of wonderful clothing. I will admit I am somewhat out of the loop in regards to the history menswear and I really appreciated finding this gem of an exhibit.

1920s blazers / Photo credit: Reggie Darling via Funky President

I've always been somewhat entranced by things pertaining to the Ivy league, and clothing is no exception. One of my first areas of independent research was the life of F. Scott Fitzgerald; Fitzgerald's knack for portraying the world of Princeton further cemented within my mind a romantic American image of dapper men dressed in blazers, oxfords, and well-tailored pants.

F. Scott Fitzgerald / Photo credit: New York Times
Ivy Style curator Patricia Mears did a fitting job in paying homage to the history of Brooks Brothers, one of the first manufacturers and retailers of men's ready-to-wear clothing in America. Because of their revolutionary status, Brooks Brothers became a staple on college campuses decades before "ivy style" was deemed popular. As the exhibit's website explains, Ivy league style was supposed a phenomenon during the 40's and 50's but as Brooks Brothers and the writings of Fitzgerald can attest, this was something elemental that began around the turn of the century.

Brooks Uniform Company blazer with Princeton insignia, 1923 / Photo credit: Museum at FIT

Not only did the exhibit trace the history of Ivy style as it was happening across campuses, it also traced its influence in to the 21st century, noting such influential menswear designers as classicist Ralph Lauren and innovator Thom Browne.




Photo credit: Arnaldo Anaya/Ralph Lauren; Dan and Corina Lecca/Thom Browne


Varsity sweaters, loafers, trench coats, and bow ties were all highlighted, grouped together so that original pieces from the 1910s were resting with their early-2000s descendants. This organizational approach, chronological and store-like aesthetically, worked in impressing the overall message that within the world of clothing design, ideals are continually reworked and recycled. It also reinforced to me that clothing that is originally designed for functionality or a specific niche, often has a way of bleeding in to the rest of a culture.

As someone not very familiar with menswear, it was impressive to realize how many classic staples Ivy league style has created and the impact it continues to have on mainstream Prep wear .. I didn't even realize that there was a distinction between Ivy style and Prep until this exhibit! This idea of "prep" is more so the mainstream adaptation of Ivy league staples, as popularized in preparatory schools.

                                  



Check out FIT's slideshow highlighting the exhibit, and don't miss their overview and in depth exhibit site

Ivy Style runs to January 5, 2013.

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