Dress Codes: The Evolution of Clothing as a Social Indicator

Douglas Quenqua wrote an insightful article in the Summer of 2011 for the New York Times that was recently brought to my attention, despite its publishing date being over a year old. Entitled Dress Codes in New York Clubs: Will This Get Me In?, Quenqua dove in to some of NYC's hot spots and reported back on what was and was not deemed "acceptable" attire by the owners.

As a Midwesterner, this concept of public dress codes is not one that I have had much experience with, and is, in theory to me, an engaging, multifaceted, and frustrating thing.What do dress codes say about our culture? About our tolerance and respect for others? About how we determine a person's worth or perceive their personality? Do clothes stand for more, and tell us more about someone, than we as a culture would like to admit?

At church on Sunday, my father complimented one of our elders on his long, wool overcoat. Black and simple, with clean lines, the coat made a powerful impression on one of the man's business partners, he relayed. And, that as much as he hated admitting it, clothes really are tied to self esteem. As humility is highly prized in some conservative and religious circles, it was interesting to note someone insightfully realizing the power of clothing and it got me thinking: clothing serves so many purposes, why not a humble means for healthfully boosting self assurance? On the opposing sides of this concept are stripped down cultures of dress such as the Amish and the materialistic self worth prevalent in our consumer-based society today. As far as Quenqua's article goes, I tend to want to place it within context of the latter, but realize that this is a highly nuanced topic; within the sweeping generalities that can be made of consumer-based society, live real people who are really trying to express themselves. Is it right to say that those who express themselves differently than others aren't "allowed" somewhere?

Photo credit: Bloomburg Businessweek

As quoted in the article, Ian Parms, owner of the Mulberry Project, stated a truth that I can't help but agree with: "There's nothing that dresses a room like a crowd." How else are we to get the feel of a certain hot spot, a restaurant, a business, a part of town, than by critiquing those we see around us? In this way, clothing serves as a highly powerful non-verbal cue that subconsciously teaches the onlooker of the values backing the environment one is placed within. Consider that the next time you get dressed!

Photo credit: Emily Berl for the NY Times

Clothing consummates stereotypes, but, logically, those stereotypes must exist for a reason. This, of course, tows a very thin line between common sense and the more serious issues of overt snobbery and racism. Quenqua noted a sports bar in the East Village that was under investigation for its "no baggy jeans or bling policy" which was taken by civil rights groups as an out and out ploy against black customers. Are hot spots in New York using the freedom of editing their clinetelle, based on looks alone, to champion racism? This is a lofty question and this is also where I feel that the issue of dress codes and merely judging others by looks alone can cross the line.

Is a style or feel in a club worth more than respecting a fellow human being? Is it right to make sweeping generalities when you don't have the time to get to know someone individually and your only clue is their clothing? An interesting paradox is created in which clothing sends messages, but we are forced to balance out those messages with true face to face contact. In an environment such as a line waiting to get in to a club, there isn't much time for personal chit chat, so clothing is your only means of speaking.

My head is swimming with all of the potential discussion on this topic and I have such mixed feelings about these dress codes! What are your views?

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