A Rare 90's Surrealism: Christian Francis Roth

I've been doing research on numerous designers this summer, both famous and lesser known. Some, like Patrick Kelly, I should have known about but hadn't heard of. Others, like Christian Francis Roth, were obscure treasures.

While sorting promotional photographs at one of my internships I came across a file of slides and prints featuring a young designer in his show room and on a red carpet. The images were thoughtfully composed and the personality of the man in question was able to intriguingly showcase itself. Roth was (and still is!) a New York-based designer who at the young age of 21 shot to high prevelance on the fashion scene with his self-described "oddball" designs. Little has been written on this designer but this is what I've found so far:

After the showing of his first collection in 1988 retailers in New York were clamoring for Roth's clothes--most notably the now defunct Martha, Saks 5th Ave, Bergdorf Goodman, and Bloomingdales. Roth's designs were entirely handmade so keeping up with demand was a struggle almost from the beginning of his career.

Vogue, Sept 1, 1990

New York Times, Dec 23, 1992

Pieces from his first several collections are owned by the Metropolitain Museum of Art, which exhibited Roth's work while he was at the height of his fame in the early 90s. As Roth closed his business in 1996 it appears that the pieces in the Met's collection are some of the only extant examples availiable for public study and research.

Metropolitain Museum of Art

Metropolitain Museum of Art

Metropolitain Museum of Art

 I was struck by the poignant surrealism and historical sophistication of Roth's designs; not a trait many, if any, 90s designers are known for. Roth's jackets are delightfully reminiscent of Schiaparelli's designs; based on his work and design philosophies it seems he arrived at such designs not with the intent of surrealism but with a deep-rooted sense of fun.

Metropolitain Museum of Art

Metropolitain Museum of Art

Metropolitain Museum of Art

Based on photos, Roth was able to enlist the talents of supermodel Lauren Hutton. A handful of editorial photographs exist around the internet; if anyone has accurate sources for these images, please let me know, as I have yet to find any!

Roth with Hutton / Pinterest

In 2008, Roth began designing under his new label Francis by Christian Francis Roth. His first collection was inspired by his daughter and her friends and--essentially--the high school conception of cliques. Since then he has produced numerous collections revolving around adolescence with design aesthetics nodding to the past.


Sources:
CFDA bio
Elle, January 2009
New York Times, July 18, 1989
Wall Street Journal, June 26, 2008
Women's Wear Daily, June 26, 2008
Vogue 1990